Last year I spent some time in Ireland. I drove up around Connemara some, and it was beautiful, but I felt like I was watching pictures on the television out that car window.

Then I took a bus to Doolin, this little town on the coast of County Clare. Maybe you won’t think I did much. I spent a few weeks there, drinking tea and talking to the locals and the others who were passing through. And I walked. Each day I tried to walk a little further or in a different direction. One day I took the bus out to the Cliffs of Moher.

Up at the cliffs I saw a footpath. It was headed in the right direction, so I took it. Lucky for me it’d been dry for a few days running, because this footpath was a pretty narrow space in between barbed wire fences and a straight down drop.

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